Pura Luhur Uluwatu stands on a cliff at the south-western tip of Bali, one of the island's six great directional temples. At sunset the Kecak is performed in an amphitheatre beside it, with the sea behind the dancers.
We arrive with time to walk the cliff paths on either side of the temple. The inner temple is open only to worshippers, but the paths give you the views. The temple's long-tailed macaques take sunglasses, hats and phones; your guide will tell you what to put away.
Seats at the Kecak are unreserved. Your guide goes in early to hold places high in the amphitheatre, where the sunset sits behind the performers. The Kecak tells an episode of the Ramayana with a chorus of chanting men and no instruments, and lasts about an hour.
Dinner follows at a restaurant on the Bukit cliffs, one of a few we use. We tell you which when you book.