Nusa Penida's east coast faces the sunrise. Diamond Beach and Atuh sit side by side on it, under white limestone cliffs, and both are at their quietest before eight.
We reach the top of Diamond Beach in time for first light over the Lombok Strait. On the clearest mornings, Lombok's mountains show on the horizon.
The stairs down were cut into the cliff face and have a rope handrail. They take ten to fifteen minutes and are steep but even. At the bottom you have white sand, the sea stacks offshore and, most mornings, very few people. Swim only if the sea is flat and your guide agrees; waves break hard here on a swell.
A short walk along the cliff brings you to Atuh, with its rock arch standing in the bay. The steps to Atuh's beach are longer than Diamond's and shaded in places. Breakfast is on the cliff above.
On the way back we stop at the Thousand Islands viewpoint, where a scatter of islets sits off the headland.