Nusa Penida
Nusa Penida is the largest of the three Nusa islands, across the Badung Strait from Bali and about 40 minutes by speedboat from Sanur. It is a raised block of limestone, with cliffs that drop straight into the Indian Ocean on the south and west, and farming villages on the dry plateau above.
For most visitors it means a handful of viewpoints: Kelingking's headland, the arch at Broken Beach, Diamond Beach under its white cliffs. They are as good as their photographs, and at midday they are crowded.
The coasts
The west coast holds Kelingking, Broken Beach, Angel's Billabong and Crystal Bay. The east coast faces the sunrise, with Diamond Beach, Atuh and the Thousand Islands viewpoint. The two are about an hour apart on narrow roads, which is why we treat them as separate days.
The water
Reef mantas visit cleaning stations off the south-west coast most of the year, and in the dry season oceanic sunfish rise to the reefs at Crystal Bay. The waters around the island are part of a marine protected area, and the currents are strong. Snorkelling and diving here should always be with a guide who knows them.
The island itself
Pura Dalem Ped on the north coast is one of the most important temples in Balinese belief, and pilgrims cross from Bali to pray there. Goa Giri Putri is a temple inside a limestone cave. Up on the plateau, weavers make cepuk cloth on hand looms.