Most people see Kelingking between ten and three, when the day boats from Bali have landed and the viewpoint is several people deep. Stay on the island and you can be at the rail before six, with the headland lit from the side and a handful of others sharing the view.
Your guide and driver collect you from your villa in the dark. At the top you have the viewpoint while the light comes up and the water below turns from grey to blue.
The descent is optional, and it is serious. The path runs down the spine of the headland: steps, bamboo rails and bare rock, steep enough that most fit adults take 30 to 45 minutes down and longer back up. Your guide knows which rails are loose and which steps move. After rain the path is slippery, and on those mornings we stay at the top.
At the bottom the beach is yours for a while. We keep our feet on the sand: the shore break is heavy and there is a strong rip, and swimmers have drowned here.
Breakfast follows, and you are back at your villa as the traffic from the first boats reaches the viewpoint.