Kelingking is the photograph that sells Nusa Penida: a long green headland running out into deep blue water, with a crescent of white sand tucked beneath it. Its name means "little finger" in Indonesian, though most visitors call it the T-Rex, after the shape the ridge makes from the viewpoint. It is as good in person as it is on screen. How much you enjoy it depends almost entirely on when you go.

The day boats from Bali land between about eight and ten in the morning, and by eleven the viewpoint is several people deep. They leave between three and five in the afternoon.

The best time is the first hour after sunrise. The light comes in from the side, the water turns from grey to blue as you watch, and you share the rail with a handful of people rather than a crowd. This only works if you sleep on the island, or cross from Bali very early by private speedboat.

The afternoon is quieter than midday, but photographers generally prefer the morning: later in the day the sun moves round in front of the viewpoint.

A path runs down the spine of the headland to the beach. It is part concrete steps, part bamboo rail, part bare rock, and it is steep throughout. Most fit adults take 30 to 45 minutes to go down and 45 to 60 to climb back up, with rests.

It is safe enough for sure-footed people on a dry day, with a guide who knows which rails are loose. It is not a path for anyone with bad knees, a fear of drops, or sandals. After rain it becomes slippery, and we do not take guests down.

You lose nothing of the view by staying at the top. Many of the best angles are from the upper platforms.

The beach at the bottom is beautiful, and it is not for swimming. Waves break hard on a steep shore, and there is a strong rip. Swimmers have drowned here. We keep our feet on the sand.

Our Kelingking at first light walk puts you at the rail before sunrise, with a guide for the descent and breakfast afterwards. On a day trip from Bali, a private speedboat gets you there ahead of the scheduled boats.